Wednesday 12 June 2013

The Quest for Gold...our glorious past revealed....

So after Kalgoorlie the main aim of our journey is/was to get to Geraldton and start heading up the coast line for some warmer weather, get the gear off, so sick of jeans and long sleeve tees, vests, coats and scarves, camp fires for warm and as for the washing of..ahhhh! and we are also running out of fish to eat!
But the history of the west and the quest for gold and minerals has whetted our appetite to find out  and see more of the country, it is ruggedly beautiful and we will not be coming this way again.
We think of our piece of string and Mick is nearly 7/10ths along his piece, but doing very well I might say!
We still have the good company of Doug and Jean, it is lovely to share this sort of trip with someone. I seem to be the tour guide, find the info, do the research and away we go on a merry dance!! if I stuff up too bad, I seem to live by, 'if it is to be it is up to me' that is it my 10x2!
So this is it 10-14 days to Geraldton for Kal...
 
I will post lots of info pics so reading with any of the famous 'i' gadgets is handy...
 
 



20 km nth Kal, found this remnant of a peddle car...wanted it!!


Broad Arrow, 38km nth Kalgoorlie, gazetted town site in1893 and still a popular 'outback pub'. too early for us for a drink or a burger.
 
Jean wanted to go to SIBERIA..so we did..
 
 
 Siberia..yep, says it all, this was the start of looking at cemeteries, the only 'surviving' history in these area or sometimes a pub. Might seem morbid to some but they hold lots of historical facts, like the causes of death, ie plagues and diseases, accidents and just plain 'perish' as for ages of those who died... hmmm life out here was just all too hard.
 6 graves marked but un named...they no doubt added to our history.
 Siberia..Cemetery fence...I liked it.
 Jean and husband Doug..morning tea in the Siberia cemetery!

 I hope you can read these, zoom your screen up to 150%  may help...
 
Siberia was just a mere 50 km detour on the dirt, one for Jean, but they did not know about my detour which was coming up!!!!
 
MENZIES
a very small mining and pastoral town, town hall, house/café, post office, a very new caravan park (stimulus $'s) and a fuel outlet, diesel $1.86.
The one and only small section of street was newly paved and landscaping attempted and the following laser cut sculptures...spent an hour cruising them.

 Grinned...:-)
 'Oh I wish this wind would stop! As soon as I hang out the washing it is dirty again"...






 Oops didn't get this photo...but I do remember the 'night cart man' and when we were first married and live at Whorouly we had a can!!!
 The Menzies servo covered in number plates...and high fence, wonder what for!!
 
OMG...Mick took this pic and then I looked...my mother is with us!!! Bound to happen.
 
Still at Menzies..lunch, the drying of washing and another 1 hour cemetery visit, respectfully in awe of those who pioneered this area.
 Get the colours out here....
 Check out the clothing and uniforms or the nurses...how did they keep them clean? did they keep the heat out?

 The headstones and memorials, what is left of them are quite beautiful and elaborate.

These wreaths which would have had a glass dome top were made in like a cream can lid and tin leaves and porcelain flowers were wired to the base..now over 100 years old.
 
and now for my detour just a mere 51 km there and 51 km back on the red dirt,
 overnight camp spot LAKE BALLARD.
 10 yrs ago British Sculptor Anthony Gormley (born 1950) created international attention when he was commissioned to do this installation on/in Lake Ballard and huge dry salt lake.
His unique 51 sculptures cover 7 sq km of the lake ...I only got to see about 20 sculptures, 5-7 hours is a recommended time to view them all and sunset timing for me was beautiful, I did wish I had my good camera then Kim.
Each metal figure is the result of a digital scan of a naked body in 3 dimensions. The digital info was then adjusted to create a form the same height as the person scanned but with the body volume reduced two thirds.
The result is called the 'Insider', they are the body scans of local aboriginal and other residents of Menzies. Each abstract figure reveals individual attitudes, emotions and personal history-the passage of that persons life.
Anthony Gormley stated " Inside Australia' was the most difficult long distance, intense, exhilarating, fatiguing endeavour of my life-and the most rewarding.
 
 
 Just me all alone, coat, scarf and beanie and an iphone camera, with the going down of the sun..
 I do remember them!.... Pigeon toes and a dingle dangle and salt.
 positioned 100-200 metres apart
 just me out there...the dot in the background is the caravan.
 Recent rain had made track marks of the people looking...
 It would be magnificent here when the red dirt looks like cracked chocolate...red chocolate!
 The only little fella I found...bogged!
 2 hours just me..Mick watching me wander off into the distance..la, la, la...
 The colours just as the sun set on one of the mounds.
 
from the van next morning Mick up on the hill...Doug and Jean..not their thing!
If it was not so far away and so remote I would go there again, just to see different colours and light. and to feel at peace with the universe...just to wander. nomadmarg!
 
 
NIAGRA DAM
Nice free camp spot, historical yet  again and very pretty on sunset, know for yabbies..we totalled 17 very small yabs.
 Us below the Niagra Dam wall
 The 'debris fence', there is a very small rain fall here but when there is  a cyclone there can be big dump of water..quite amazing is the fact that each hole in the metal is hand drilled and the ground is mostly rock..such hard work to erect such a fence. In the past there would have been lots of debris washed here as the land was cleared by logging camps for timber to run the steam trains.
 built 1897, to service the steam trains in the gold rush period, another engineering feat by CY Connoly.

 A 'breakaways' walk on sunset, the white quartz was like snow...couldn't kick up any gold tho, looks like many had tried.
 One of the ten species of gimlets..too beautiful
 I had to touch and hug this tree, it was golden...and like me weathered and worn and aging!

 Ant nest like I had never seen before
 Pebbly ant nests and big slow ants, daren't stir them up!
How tough and strong is this ant, lifting much more than its' weight over its' head. Fascinating
 
KOOKYNIE 'A living ghost town'





And yet another outback pub..with stories to tell.
 
LAVERTON named after a Dr laver who rode his bike from Kalgoorlie to here as a Dr and looking for gold, and remained here all his life.
Laverton is the furthest point on the 965km Discovery trail, and also an important link to the Outback Way 'Australia's Longest Shortcut' thru to Queensland.
A caravan park...yippee and you wouldn't believe it but as we book in Doug and Jean are met buy yet another Kerang couple who are managing the park for a few months...during their retirement!
Leonora is a mining and  hobby prospecting and indigenous community, PO and General Store and servo and pub. The mining camp in town offers $12, 3 course meals so Saturday night and off we go, only 20 men in camp currently and 6 'visitors'. There was  a soup  and a great variety of hot and cold food for dinner, several sweets, icecream and cheeses and fruit platter. Breakfast cereals were set up as were drink dispensers, lime cordial, sign above indicating, not good for you, orange juice , better and water good, healthy eating signs every where. The workers of all ages came and went, mostly ate by themselves and not much talking...made me think of the FIFO lifestyle, some young blokes there with wedding rings on, I hope it works for them! 12 hr, 21 days on, isolation....not good me thinks!
In Laverton ther is The Great Beyond Explorers Hall of Fame, we spent 2 hours there on Sunday morning, an interpretive centre which highlights the journeys of the early explorers.
walking back to car, that tyre looks flat Mick, nah!
After lunch and in our vehicle we all went out to a mine was Windara now Posidon, about to start production as a nickel mine again, of particular interest to us!!! say no more!!!
About 30 km out there and back...all good!
 
 
 
Great man..successful
 
 
That mine, am I confident.. dunno! looks busy and it was Sunday.
The washing on a proper clothes line note the red, dust mud.
So out of Leonora leisurely pack up and move 5 meters, I was not in the car and noticed, Oh yep...flat  front tyre!!
So jack up, tyre off and eventually find a very small tack in the tyre...'dog's dick' time again, good things them things!! Half hour later farewell Kerang folk and on the road again heading for Leonora, via some side tracks.
 

In a few k's and this is what we found.

Mt Morgan Cemetery, quite an isolated but large area many graves,  I thought this wreath would have been so expensive and has stood the test of time maybe over 100 yrs old, note the curved glass, china flowers and tin leaves. RIP.
 
Listening to tapes and reading about the era I learned that most made good money in those golden times, like the housekeepers in Hotels, cooks were paid huge wages, bar maids and laundry/sewing ladies..it was said men had plenty of money to spend. There are pictures of couples and families going out on Sundays on the train into the country side picnicking and  picking wild flowers for their day out.
The men and boys who worked the wood line and were sandalwood pullers would not have had it so easy..they were essential as there were many steam trains.
Camped 10 km out of Leonora, nice lake, in a conservation park, 5 yabbies released!
 
LEONORA-GWALIA
The end of our Gold Journey...
A mining town of around 1100, and a hairdresser, walk in walk out...all snipped up by a travelling English girl supervising a young local apprentice who is fortunate enough to have parents set up a shop for her, who also own the motel of prefab dongas for miners and gov workers and nurses of a recently built 160 person detention centre in town. And a  few other houses too I gather, employing lots of back packers, so able to accommodate them. Right place, right time! Hairdresser info!
 
Sons of Gwalia, a mine with a chequered history but back in action now..since 1980, busy mine with Museum attached, lot's of good things to see and of note is the fact that in 1897 Son's of Gwalia Mine was managed by the 31st  US President , Herbert Hoover..in his younger days, reported to be ruthless and not very popular as a young manager and soon shipped off to China to manage a mine there.
There is a restored house onsite named Hoover House and can be viewed and also used as a B & B.
 
The Gold mine Son's of Gwalia Leonora.
 
  Hoover House restored after cyclone in 2000, nice inside with some original elegance.
 Bike seat frames, the mode of transport in those times.
 Not too sure about the number plate..but maybe
 Horse drawn grader and roller.
 Water cart wheel.
 The winder thingo...the men were in awe of this...


 wouldn't want to throw a spanner in the works!
 Agnew pub and that was all..it ....only and the wind was freezing.
Setting up a camp, Jean disappears and half hour later date scones Yummo!!
 Donny Somebody's Breakaway lookout nearing Sandstone..nice view. freezing cold might rain.
 
SANDSTONE
Into a newish Shire Caravan Park, good reviews on Wikicamps, nice little town Pub/store PO/Art Centre and tourist Info . Shire pop 119. yep 119
very tidy, nice street scape and history info.
 

 World war 1 and this is what happened all the man power just walked out of the towns and walked to war in the Middle East
 camel transport for the wool industry, which has now converted to cattle too many sheep deathes from wild dogs.
 Tough strong men at work.
 At Sandstone a Brewery was built above here and via a shaft the vats were below in the cave.
 Yet another London Bridge, a 800 metre 'breakaway'
 and that is that...Kalgoorlie to Sandstone, I know no more  for the next section of our journey to Geraldton, but I guess I will work it out or bluff my way thru!!
 So in the warm, real power, with some good smells, baked bread, t butter biscuits and yep lemon sago...frogs eggs....and it is only 3 in the morning...Good night my family and friends!!
 
 

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