Wednesday 26 June 2013

Our Mick, 70 years young during a record rain event in the Pilbra!


Carnarvon was a return visit town for us, so a caravan park stay and a catch up/stock up was in order.
In the afternoon we went in our vehicle 60km further up the coast to an area referred to as Quobba/Quobba Station, one is a shack area where there is a minimal weekly fee to stay, the Station is further north. Quobba has some blow holes and some quite dangerous fishing cliffs, only the week before  a fishing person been washed off the rocks and has not be found...warnings warnings warnings!!  Monuments...memorials. Notorious area!

 
and so shock horror at Quobba..even if we had our vans on there was no room, 65 vans we counted along the dunes almost awning to awning, many there long term for the fishing and snorkelling..no shops or supplies, Carnarvon being 60km away and phone service was up at the lighthouse only.


 
and the blow holes, risk a life for the ultimate photo shot, it is what comes up behind that is the concern here.

About 500m from the blow holes we could see balloons in the sky, so off we go to investigate and there we two Quobba Station guests from Perth fishing with huge helium filled rubber balloons attached to their line. They were fishing off a very high cliff and had caught two big Spanish Mackerel this way, hauling them up the cliff face with a special gaff. We checked out their vehicle very specked up note the helium gas cylinder attached to the back, they had all the best gear and do this twice a year..would be excellent fun..
Carnarvon is also well known for it's farm fresh veg and bananas..wrong time of year to buy any.

 
A tranquil, serene rest stop, by 2pm...time out...time
 
CORAL BAY...had a few nights there in '99 not much had changed! as very limited development land there. 2 very overcrowded caravan parks, mini mart and a few tourist boat trip businesses.. I remembered the water as warm and I snorkelled for hours while Mick went on a fishing charter on our last visit..this time very cold water but the colour is beautiful. Hmm should we do return visits?
 



Some one had fun making this.. WAS wool history here, shipped out of Exmouth.
 
 and this is a typical WA river,  at our camp at Barradale on the highway, south of Onslow.




Sunday 23rd saw us taking the 80km detour off the North West Highway into Onslow..one 'cos we wanted to and two, Brodie Pascoe a family friend and her Adam and three young kids spent a month or so in there as Brodie had a nursing contract there....it could have been a long month!!  Onslow has pop of around 880 but it is  a town in transition because of the mining and off shore gas development. We checked out one very ordinary fibro house and it was under contract at $1,150,000....there are 2 very squeezy caravan parks and accommodation blocks being built. Pub, servo fuel and food  diesel $1.98/l, small supermarket and a very enterprising person had a coffee and food caravan with a few tables in front of it, the tourist info was quite handy although not real informative..except to say there was a huge amount of rain expected and probably it was not advisable to camp on the Ashburton River about 20 km out of town...so we heeded the advice and didn't thankfully!

 
Onslow salt mine..employs around 90 people we were told.

 
And now for the 5000 workers FIFO..Accommodated in these 3 boats, dongas and anywhere they can be put at the moment.

3 Story accom units being built, look like room enough for a single bed and that is about it, probably shared facilities, I did not like seeing lots of fellas roaming around town with not much to do...some sitting outside their dongas on a plastic chair head in hands...a concerning lifestyle...

 
Onslow war memorial,  it has been designed for the sun to rise through the centre each and every Anzac Day... really nice.

More of this type of accommodation was being built on this site, resort style.
And that was Onslow, no doubt a good fishing place, we were out of there heeding the rain warning.

Wikicamps was telling us the next best camp was the Robe River area..arrived 5 pm, it was packed with around 25 vans! Across the road and parallel to the highway was the old high way...unused and sealed so we camped up there, thankfully...during the night it started to rain and it did not stop, not heavily or too windy where we were but rain, we were soon to learn that it was the most rain ever recorded in this area  around 260 ml in 24 hours..ABC radio kept us all informed as did the iphone apps..

AND SO WE WERE HAPPY TO STAY PUT AS IT WAS MICK'S BIG DAY!!!
 
Not quite as planned but yum anyway, lamb shanks and mash for 4, Doug and Jean have had many a winter with us so have celebrated Mick's birthdays often.


A 'slab' of me made Rocky Road...easy to make on the road.

Tuesday, the next day, too much flooding to move on. Collecting water from across the road to wash our very dirty van and vehicle..a good chance to do some overdue maintence.
The local ABC radio asked for pics of what we travellers were doing and how we were coping with the conditions..so I sent this one in and it was discussed for  quite some time. The next day Wednesday I had a call from the ABC asking if I would do a radio interview around 10 am which was about how the 'grey nomads' had coped and about Micks 70th birthday on the road in the rain..except they were not allowed to call me a grey nomad...they liked the term 'Freedom Lifestyler', we had quite an off air discussion about that.
The rain had let up but we really had come all this way to go into Dampier, Karratha and Pt Sampson Roebourne, as we had not been there on the last trip, having gone inland to Tom Price and Newman and Marble Bar.
The towns had been flooded and we did not need to be amongst that and accommodation/parks are limited and the free camp areas had been closed, so we decided to spend the three days here camped on the road, the sun was out, wind blowing, the rain going further north.
The caravan traffic .had been noticeably less but tonight there are 28 vans camped in this area so tomorrow we are off to see what we can see..and stay where ever we can be..hopefully Broome in 2-3 weeks time.
 
Wet day on the road..out came the wool bag, couple of head bands, a few hand towel holders, for who I do not know but I enjoy it, the Rocky Road..eat/walk, eat/walk... 


One of the best things we have done in the van is raise the seat and use this area for the computer storage, books and magazines and place mats etc..I read a whole book  here to loved it "The Currency Lads' by Peter Yeldman Set in Sydney in 1833 about 2 young fellas and life and corruption in the colony and the convict trade etc..nice blend of fact and fiction.

The most used and essential bits in our van..everyday the Chefs toolbox combo cooker, the 3 trivets, and silicon mits, the plastic vase of Jade and my butterfly, thanks Jo x

Other trivial info which may interest some..We have been gone 10 weeks and in that time have only stayed 18 days in caravan parks which has average out at $30/stay, so the other 52 days have saved us about $1560..all adds up, but fuel and gas can be expensive, 9kg gas refills have  ranged from $22-41. Our bottles last approx 2.5 weeks and gas is used for cooking, hot water service and the fridge.

that is it for a few weeks..til Broome Cheers Marg and Mick and yep he is asleep!
PS caravan living..this is my time!!

Sunday 23 June 2013

Westward still we go....

NB: HAVE WORKED OUT IF YOU DOUBLE CLICK A PIC YOU WILL GET A SLIDE SHOW AND EASIER TO SEE SOME DETAILS.

After a hearty farewell from Sandstone by the 'Spice Girl' we thought we would soon be in Geraldton and heading north but once again side tracked by our history interests and so....
 
 
Attempting to leave Sandstone and we were summonsed over by this very enterprising local..she sits here under her brolly 7 days a week just near the Tourist info centre and sells tea, coffee, burgers and sausages, gets busy around lunch time! Little gas barbie behind her, very organised as you can see and she managed to sell us a wee packet (about a tablespoon) of Bush Spices for $5 with lots of cheek and laughter. There is only a pub/store if you need any food here so she would do very well..the arid street scape plantings were lovely here a very tidy and proud little town, a base for some prospecting.
We headed off to Mt Magnet, yet another small now but big in gold mining history and a few mines still working..quite large mines actually as we saw from a lookout.
After a visit to the new and very modern Info Centre we were advised of what and where to go and encouraged to head north  to Cue just another 160 km round trip, so come lunch time a plan was made and detour OK ed!

Mt Magnet from the lookout..the white hole is the first gold mine in the town,



 On the back road to Cue some great  'Breakaway' formations, magnificent colours


Reds and silver blues, I really liked this one..












 







 
 Growing amongst the hot rocks these small flowers similar to orchids, very precise markings on each petal.



 



I was somewhat distracted here as our grand daughter Amber now 9 was 'BUMPING" me..so I flicked her off a pic of these rocks and sat amongst them wishing for some gold! We messaged to and fro..technology is so great especially for these special moments..she is such a funny and creative texter!!




 The courthouse , police station and PO of Cue, a very small town but the truck traffic was huge!! Then we checked our maps and realised it is the main inland route from Perth to Newman and the north . No wonder our overnight off road camp was so noisy...but we sleep thru it!
Cue has a small caravan park where hobby prospectors stay and do quite well we hear.
One of the stories told is prospecting at night in the cool and NO FLIES, but advised to take a starters pistol with you to scare off wild dogs...
There is also a large mining camp owned by the same owners of the Leonora & Laverton Caravan Park we stayed in. Accommodation  for around 200  mining staff  but no evidence of a car park for that many people..all FIFO ie fly in fly out.
The Shire Office ex 'Gentlemans Club' has a great photographic display of past years.
Other than that a very small town with a little craft info shop, the ownwer managed to sell us some fly cream, everyone seems to complain about the flies out here! So in the rain showers back 80 Km to Mt Magnet then westward..this time...
Evening stop YALGOO.. very small indigenous mainly town.
 It was at Yalgoo we became aware of the remarkable one Anglican turned catholic priest Monsignor John Hawes: Hawes designed and built numerous churches around mid west WA..he is worth a google!
Yalgoo, a very small church, Hawes physically helped build the churches
 
Camped out of Yalgoo..we could see the light at the end of the tunnel, Jokers Tunnel, gold mining late 1800's 100 meters thru hill..more tough men stories...
a wee bat on the roof of the tunnel

We were able to walk thru 100 metre tunnel and with a torch saw many coloured rock formations...those men were crazy gold fevered gamblers!
 

 Mullewa ...Hawes Church build 1916-1939, many unusual features.


At Mullewa more Hawes structures... I remember this was a Saturday and Kim told us she and Linda had bought the unit next to their home..well done we are very proud of them. x
 
  Check out the colour of the rock at Mullewa.
 
 
 Another overnighter at Teindewa, near an old stock well and an area where today and that night trains shunted constantly out of Gladstone..116 haulers per train and often there we 3 trains in sight.
 









 A nice afternoon nature walk for Mick and I, warm at last...
A wide track made by the most vicious large black ants we have ever seen!! they attacked!!

No idea what makes these tracks we found no critters!
 
GERALDTON pop 40,000 on the west coast at last..and some shops!
 
Sunday check in to caravan park for 2 nights. Sunday arvo in Museum, excellent, the sailing ship Batavia History,  and HMAS Sydney history and much  much more...
 I was feeling somewhat sad this day my Uncle Bill from Shepparton had passed away...he was my dad's bro inlaw and a very nice uncle to me.
 HMAS Sydney memorial, high  up on the hill in Geraldton, very serene, the dome has  600+ sea gulls in memory of each personnel lost in the sinking of the ship....a beautiful memorial nicely lit at night.
 
The Geraldton Hawes designed and built  church

 A time piece...lots of dates and numbers on the slide thing and the shadow from the thingo above falls...  bla bla bla and so you can tell the time, yeah right! I am not too smart, cannot bluff that one!

 A visit to the info centre and old goal..not a good place tyo be but only around 12 prisoners at a time.
 
Tuesday..yet another sad day for me..now doubly sad and homesick my Uncle Graham passed away, my mothers brother from Broadford..this country is too big!
Not much chatter today...
 
At Lynton Station near Port Gregory..how windy do you reckon this place is. We viewed Sanford House, Sanford  was the first governor in WA but only lived here for a few years, a prison labour camp was also here for a mine 2 days walk away, it also lasted less than one year. Lots of hard labour but in the wrong and isolated area.
 Some will remember these...fly insect sprayers..



 
Sanford House, in restoration mode..would have been a majestic home in it's day. There was a school group in and bad sun position for photos...

 
 

 The nearby convict 'village'..convicts were sent here to provide labour for the mines. Over 9000 convicts were sent to Aust..

 twin tub anyone!
 
More info re the settlement.
 
KALBARRI
 
 On to Kalbari and it's National Park..much has changes and regulated. .the cliff viewing areas have designated lookouts and boarded  walkways..guess our environment is quite fragile as there are many Aussie and International tourists travelling.

South of Kalbarri
 
a nice lunch stop over then into Kalbarri... 
 Intention was to stay in National Park but that is no longer permissible..the Natures Window Loop, a 22 km road in has just been closed for a year to be sealed and no doubt redeveloped..so onto Hawkes Nest and this has been sealed and lookouted and board walked and sheltered and NICE! not as we remembered and sitting on the Hawkes head no longer possible...ahhh change is good almost makes you think not to go back to where you have enjoyed as there will always be change.

 overlooking the Murchison River at Kalbarri NP... back on the road looking for an overnighter
 
Camped at the lead smelter which was part of the history of what we had previously seen at Pt Gregory/ Convict labour settlement..it too was constructed with the convict labour but only used for a year...
 
A decision was made not to head into Denham /Monkey Mia...been there done that enjoyed it before, cannot do it all so will close this blog just south of Carnarvon at Gnomesville,

 
 
 
 high up on a mesa lookout..where I had some quiet time..thinking...of June and family, of Jan and family and of our friend Heather, her mum had just passed away in Echuca....bad week...
 
Some info for those who like such stuff..
Wang to Carnarvon, 6894 km travelled.
$2013, fuel costs. 29.2c /km
15.2L/100km and 6.4km/L
Good as it gets Mick calculated, 
 goodnight from me
and Mick who is sleeping and  who will be 70 when he wakes up!!!
PARTY TIME.....